Sugared Doughnuts

In a medium bowl, combine the warm milk, yeast and 1/2 cup/65 grams flour. Stir with a wooden spoon to form a wet dough. Cover the bowl with a clean towel and allow it to sit until doubled in size, 15 to 20 minutes. Pre-fermenting the dough like this gives the doughnuts a more complex, tangy flavor.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the eggs and buttermilk. Add 1/4 cup sugar, salt, nutmeg, pre-ferment and remaining 3 cups/388 grams flour. Knead on the lowest speed until it comes together in a smooth and elastic dough, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and dough hook.

Cut the butter into chunks and add all at once. Incorporate by kneading the dough on speed 2 until the butter is folded in and the dough is again smooth and elastic, 5 to 6 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and fold the dough over to form a loose sphere. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for the dough to rise slowly and chill completely, 4 to 12 hours.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust lightly with flour. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and use a floured rolling pin to roll it to a ½-inch thickness. Using cookie or biscuit cutters, cut out 3-inch rounds then cut out 1-inch-diameter holes. Cut out as many doughnut holes as you can from the remaining dough on the work surface. Set aside the scraps to fry as a treat for all your hard work.

Arrange the doughnuts on the prepared baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let proof at room temperature until the chill is off and the dough feels airy when you tap it gently, about 45 minutes.

Set a wire rack over a baking sheet and place the remaining 2 cups/400 grams sugar in a medium bowl. In a heavy, large pot or deep fryer, heat at least 3 inches of oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350 degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, check the temperature by dropping in a scrap of dough. It should bubble immediately and steadily.

Working in batches, use a slotted metal spoon or spatula to carefully place the doughnuts, holes and scraps in the hot oil. Fry, flipping once, until light golden brown, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side for the doughnuts and 30 seconds for the holes and scraps. When done, transfer each to the wire rack and return oil to 350 degrees between batches. While still warm, roll doughnuts and holes in sugar and serve immediately.